KARNIVAL SUKAN PERMOTORAN KEDAH 2013

JOM!!!

Karnival Sukan Permotoran Kedah 2013

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HEADLIGHT RESTORATION PROCESS

HEADLIGHT RESTORATION PROCESS

We’ve all seen car headlights that have turned into a foggy haze. Not only does it look bad, but it’s also unsafe because it can’t produce as much light. Sure you could buy a new headlight, but for modern cars you can plan on paying a couple hundred dollars for a replacement.

I’m going to take you through a few simple steps to restore a headlight. Depending on the condition, you can probably get it back to 90+% of new.

This example had some pretty serious damage to it. I could tell that it had been hit by something as it had pretty deep gouges all across the light. Given the condition, I knew I was going for “better” as opposed to like-new.

For this condition, you’re going to need at least several steps of wetsanding followed by several steps of machine polishing. You also want to tape all around the headlight to protect any seals/trim as well as painted finishes. If the lens has only a mild haze to it, then you should be able to clean it up with just the polishing steps without having to wetsand.

Here I am starting with 1500 grit sandpaper. I started off just like I would with any wetsanding project…go in one direction first, and then alternate directions as you move up through the different levels of paper (cross hatching). Here I started with horizontal passes. I know, I know…my tape job was less than stellar on this one!

Next I stepped up to 2000 grit sandpaper, and I switched to vertical passes:

After about 4 different grits of paper, I switched to the polishing machine with your normal commercial polish to take out the sanding haze and to polish out the finish. 

Once again…before:

After:

Since this light was hit with some force, it had micro-fractures all through the lens that was well below the surface and obviously couldn’t be corrected. When it was done, it looked probably 75%-80% of a new one.

One thing to remember is that headlights typically get to this point after they’ve lost their UV protection (some are/were made better than others). Once you polish it out, you’ll need to give it a light polish every now and then to prevent the haziness from returning. This simple maintenance step can even be done by hand.

Don’t be afraid to give it a try. It’s quick, it’s simple, and it can make a big difference in the overall look of the vehicle!

Credit to detailedimage.com

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INTERCOOLER FIN REPAIR

Intercooler Fin Repair

Intercoolers improve efficiency and power in turbo applications by rapidly radiating heat from the compressed intake charge before it enters combustion. Intercooler fins play a crucial role in the intercooler’s ability to keep your vehicle’s intake temperatures cool. Over time, the intercooler’s fins can bend or clog from road debris and rocks, causing a disruption in airflow that causes a loss in performance, not to mention becoming a real eyesore.

We noticed top-mount intercooler had a fair few extra-squashed fins. Not wanting to pony up and purchasing a new core, we decided to make repairs using simple household items. We should mention there are other options to fixing those fins, which include purchasing a fin straightener, or fin rake that’s sold online. Although using a rake fin would seem the most practical in quickly straightening those damaged fins, this tool isn’t always the best item to use as we found out with our intercooler. Many aftermarket intercooler’s cores, including ones such as Greddy, don’t have long rows of straight fins. Rather, they consist of condensed short, zigzag rows that require more attention when straightening. To address this issue, we gathered up a number of items to create our own DIY kit, which included a set of tweezers (the type your girlfriend or perhaps yourself would use to pluck eyebrows), toothpicks, and a pair of screwdrivers. 

Using a pair of flat-head screwdrivers and plenty of patience, methodically wedge the bent fin between both flat ends of the two screwdrivers and press together to straighten them back to their original shape. 

If the screwdriver method isn’t working out, a pair of wide-tip tweezers with a flat face is another alternative. 

Notice after using a set of tweezers that the intercooler fins were shaped in a square pattern. Don’t worry, we have a quick fix for that as well. 

We used toothpicks to contour the fins by simply pressing alongside each edge to achieve a nice rounded corner, similar to the factory design. 

Although the repair job proved to be tedious due to the fact that we went fin by fin, the end result was well worth our time spent as shown in the image below.

Credit to Import Tuner

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DRAGTIMES2U ROUND ONE AT TG MALIM 02 - 03 FEB 2013

DRAGTIMES2U Malaysia Drag Race Championship 2013 
Round 1

EVENT ITINERARY, DRAGTIMES2U ROUND ONE AT TG MALIM



02 Feb 2013

8.00am - 9.00am
Participant Registration & Check in

0900am - 0100pm
Campro On The Road
NA < 1.5 On The Road
Campro Open
Campro BOT
Best of 1.6 Open

0200pm - 0400pm
Inspira Club
4G93 SOHC
NA < 1.8 On The Road

1645pm - 19.00pm
2WD Turbo up to 2.0 On The Road

1945pm - 2200pm
NA<1.8 Open
2WD Turbo Open



03 Feb 2013

0800 am - 0900am
Participant Registration & Check in

0900am - 1000am
EK9 Club
Vtec B16a On The Road
Vtec 4 Doors Open CC
Vtec B16b/B18c/Type R On The Road
Vtec Open CC



Activities During Event :

Food & Baverages Booth
Dragtimes2U Merchandizing
Karaoke Section
Motorsports Attire booth
DRINK M7 Booth
Nasty Port Flow Booth
Performance part Booth
Others

Organize By : DREX PRECISION / DRAGTIMES2U

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HOW TO CARVE THE PERFECT RACING LINE

HOW TO CARVE THE PERFECT RACING LINE

If you want to carve a mesmerizingly fast curve, you'd better understand how to determine the most efficient line around the bend. No matter if you've mastered cornering techniques like Michael Schumacher, if you are not on the correct racing line, you will be no faster than a NASCAR driver attempting to turn right.

The general philosophy is simple. We want to open up the corner as much as possible, allowing you to flow the greatest amount of speed through the bend. This can be broken up into three phases — entry, middle and exit.

For the entry we want to be as wide as possible. For example, let's say we have a right-hand turn; to enter, we want to be on the far left side of the road, with our left wheels inches from the grass.

As we turn in, we bring the car across to the tightest part of the bend on the inside (right side). This is called the apex. We are now in the middle of the turn and our right-hand tires are likely grazing the painted curbing on the inside of the racetrack.

For the exit, we let the car release out of the bend and slide back across the racetrack to the far left hand side once again.

What we have done is gone "outside, inside, outside" and widened the turn as much as is physically possible. By opening up the bend we have effectively reduced the tightness of the corner and, as we all know, if the corner is less tight we can travel faster through it.

That is the simple bit — although not that simple to explain in writing! Now for the more technical bit.

You heard me mention the word apex. This is probably the most important term in this entire topic. The apex is the part of the corner where the racing line is nearest the inside of the bend. It is the exact spot where our inside wheels will touch the curbing. It also varies in placement from turn to turn.

You may have heard people talk about adopting an "early apex" or a "late apex." What that means is they are adjusting their turn-in point to produce an earlier, or later apex point. The reason you do this is rather simple.

Let's say you are coming off a sequence of bends into a tight hairpin curve. At the exit of the hairpin is a long straightaway. You want to sacrifice the entry of the corner to allow for a better exit off the turn. The time lost on entry will be worthwhile given the time gained down the long straight. In this case, you would turn in late and apex late. This would require you to input a lot of turning initially to get your car back down to its apex point from its late turn in, but in doing so, you will be able to get the car straighter sooner and be on the power earlier, resulting in a better exit speed which will carry all the way down the long straight.

The opposite would be true if, at the end of that straight, you came to another tight hairpin followed by a series of bends. Now the exit is not as relevant because you are immediately into the next section of curves. So the important part to concentrate on is making the most of your fast straightaway speed and carry that all the way into the corner. So as you hit the brakes you turn in early making for an earlier apex. You almost ‘dive-bomb' the apex carrying as much speed as possible, braking as late as you possibly can. The philosophy is to go in as hard as you dare and simply sort it out on the exit. This way you maximize your entry speed and don't lose much on the exit because you are immediately into the next bend.

Make sense?

In every type of turn, on every racetrack, the line and apex will vary slightly. The key is to analyze the corner and figure out the most effective way around. Be aware that you may adjust your line as conditions differ, your car's handling changes or you attempt to set up a pass (or defend) against another racer. You must be able to adapt on the fly and be constantly trying new things to find a faster way through.

Most important, you need to be smart. You can't enter a bend without a strategy on how you are going to navigate the turn as fast possible. It's like a quarterback in the NFL. They don't just throw the ball and hope their man catches it; there is a carefully thought-out plan to ensure maximum effectiveness. However, if the defense catches on, they are ever ready to switch it up and rewrite the playbook.

If you master the racing line you have achieved the first step to becoming the best driver you can be. It's like building a house. Once you achieve a solid base, you can begin building the structure.

Credit to Jalopnik.com

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HOW TO PROPERLY USE A CLAY BAR

HOW TO PROPERLY USE A CLAY BAR

What is a clay bar

To many, claying is a magical and mysterious process that only the professional detailers use. They have heard that using a clay bar will remove contaminants and provide a very smooth finish, but they are reluctant to try it.

While there are a few important safety tips to be aware of before trying it, claying your vehicle is actually quite easy and doing it a couple of times per year will help maintain a smooth, clean finish.

Let’s take a look at a few key areas about claying.

Why Clay?

The surface of your vehicle is constantly getting exposed to airborne contaminants that will actually stick to the finish and potentially cause damage. Items like brake dust, industrial fallout, bug residue, tar, etc. Some of these items can be corrosive, and they will start to damage the clear coat and cause rust spots if not removed regularly by using a clay bar. Tiny metal particles (commonly referred to as rail dust) will embed into the finish, and will show up as very small rust colored specs that are particularly easy to spot on white cars.

Regular washing doesn’t always remove all of the contaminants from the surface either. If you run your car through the occasional touch-less car wash (do NOT use car washes with brushes or anything else that touches the surface…that’s another topic I will cover), you will notice that there is still a film of road grime left. Over time that will build up and the only way to remove it is by claying.

By rubbing the detailing clay across the surface of the vehicles, it will actually trap these particles and contaminants leaving a fresh, smooth finish.

Not only does claying prevent potential damage from some of these corrosive materials, but it also provides a smooth surface that allows your sealant or wax to adhere better.

Do brand new cars need to be clayed?

Yes, absolutely! Once cars are built, they typically sit in lots or shipping docks that have a high exposure to industrial fallout. Many of them also spend time on trains and trucks to get to their final destinations where…they sit in lots some more! It’s very common to find rail dust on brand new vehicles. I always recommend that a brand new car gets (at the very least) clayed to remove these contaminants.

How often should I clay my car?

That depends on a lot of factors, but as a rule of thumb I recommend that it be done twice per year. If you live or work in an area with a high level of industrial fallout, then it should be done more often.

How do I know if my car needs to be clayed?

When the car is wet, lightly run your fingers across the surface to see if you feel any rough spots. If so, you’re feeling contaminants that need to be removed. Another way is to use the “bag method”. You can either put your hand inside of a plastic baggie, or use some plastic wrap from the kitchen. Run this across the surface with your hand, and if anything grabs at the plastic, you know that you need to clay.

What’s the claying process?

First you’ll need some clay and a proper clay lubricant to protect the surface. Without lubrication, the clay cannot glide across the surface, and will actually leave marring and residue (OK, important safety tip…use plenty of clay lube!).

If you are new to clay, or you clay often and thus already have a vehicle in good condition. The finer the clay, the less chance of marring the finish. The medium grade clay is used for more heavily contaminated vehicles (cars that have gone many years without claying), and it has a greater risk of marring the finish. It’s only recommended that you use medium grade clay if you are polishing afterwards.

As for clay lubes, there are plenty of choices out there. 

Before you start, you’ll want to thoroughly wash and dry the vehicle as you normally would. This is all you need to do to prep the surface for claying.

Take your clay bar and cut it up into 3 or 4 equally sized pieces. You don’t want to use one big piece because if you drop it on the ground, it needs to be thrown away! You always want a few backup pieces available to you.

Now take one of the pieces and flatten it out so it’s easily held with about 3 fingers.

Work in small sections (24″ x 24″) so that your lubricant doesn’t have a chance to dry out, and preferably do it in the shade. Liberally spray your clay lubricant across the surface. If you miss a spot, the clay will stick so be sure to get an even coverage.

With light pressure, glide the clay back and forth across the surface. Do this only in one direction and back as opposed to circles or switching directions. You should be able to hear and feel the clay picking up contaminants as it glides across the paint. Be sure not to use too much pressure otherwise you will risk marring or scratching the finish (another important safety tip!).

After a few passes you should notice that the clay glides effortlessly, and you will no longer feel or hear the roughness in the finish. Once you have achieved this, it is time to move to the next section. If you have a section that still feels rough after a few passes, re-mist the area with lubricant as you’re going to make sure the clay moves freely.

You always want to keep a fresh side of the clay on the paint, so be sure to inspect it often. Do a few small sections, and then flip the clay over to exposure a fresh side. After you have done both sides, you can fold the clay a few times, knead it, and then re-flatten it out to make sure you have a clean piece of clay to work with. You should continually check the clay to make sure there are no heavy pieces of debris in it that could potentially harm the finish.

Typically the worst areas of the vehicle will be the horizontal surfaces, the back end, and the areas directly behind the wheels.

You can also use clay to thoroughly clean the exterior windows, and the wheels as well.

If at the end of the process the clay appears to be heavily contaminated (significantly discolored or feels rough), then throw it away. In most cases it can be used again, so for storage I recommend that you spray the piece with your lubricant, and put it in a zip-lock baggie. Don’t leave the clay out and exposed as it can dry out and/or collect dirt and debris.

Here you can see a little bit of contamination in the clay after doing just one small section…on a new, garage-kept Corvette with only 1400 miles on it!

If it’s your first time, you should expect the process to take an hour or so. Once you’ve done it a few times (and your car is already pretty clean), you should be able to eventually bring the total amount of time down to about 30 minutes or less.

Once again, if you drop your clay…throw it away!

After you’re done claying the car and you’ve exposed a smooth new surface, you have a few options for your next step.

Some say to re-wash the car to remove any potential debris from the claying process, and some say it’s not necessary. Personally, I like to do a quick wash afterwards to make absolutely sure that any debris is removed along with the residue of the clay lubricant.

If you’re machine polishing or you want to do it by hand, then you’re surface is prepped and ready to give the paint a nice shine, and a good base for waxing.

Or finally at this point you can go straight to your favorite wax or sealant.

Now you have learned how to use detailing clay like a pro, and you are on your way to keeping a much nicer finish on your vehicle! Have fun…

This photo represents the finish after washing, claying, polishing, sealing, and waxing:

Credit to detailedimage.com

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NITROGEN VS AIR IN TIRES

Is Nitrogen Better than Air in Car Tires? 

Q: Is there any advantage to using nitrogen instead of compressed air in tires? Will I notice improved fuel economy or a smoother ride? Will my tires last longer? 

A: Sort of. From the top: Air is 78 percent nitrogen, just under 21 percent oxygen, and the rest is water vapor, CO2 and small concentrations of noble gases such as neon and argon. We can ignore the other gases. 

There are several compelling reasons to use pure nitrogen in tires. 

First is that nitrogen is less likely to migrate through tire rubber than is oxygen, which means that your tire pressures will remain more stable over the long term. Racers figured out pretty quickly that tires filled with nitrogen rather than air also exhibit less pressure change with temperature swings. That means more consistent inflation pressures during a race as the tires heat up. And when you're tweaking a race car's handling with half-psi changes, that's important. 

Passenger cars can also benefit from the more stable pressures. But there's more: Humidity (water) is a Bad Thing to have inside a tire. Water, present as a vapor or even as a liquid in a tire, causes more of a pressure change with temperature swings than dry air does. It also promotes corrosion of the steel or aluminum rim. 

If I ever need to top off a tire when I'm out on the road, I'll always briefly depress the tire chuck's valve with my thumbnail and vent some air. If my thumb gets wet, there's water in the line. Some gas stations don't do a very good job of keeping the humidity out of their air system. I don't even like to use a water-based tire-mounting lubricant unless I can let the tire bake in the sun for a couple of hours before I air it up and seat the bead. I've dismounted tires (not mine) that had several quarts of water inside—probably from a compressed-air hose that collected water and was never purged properly. 

How is water relevant to a nitrogen discussion? Any system that delivers pure nitrogen is also going to deliver dry nitrogen. Filling tires with nitrogen involves filling and purging several times in succession, serially diluting the concentration of oxygen in the tire. This will also remove any water. 

It's certainly simple, although time-consuming, for a tire technician to fill and bleed tires. But most shops use a machine that not only generates almost pure nitrogen by straining the oxygen out of shop-compressed air, but will also automatically go through several purge cycles unattended. Some shops have been charging as much as $30 per tire for this service. I think that's too much. If you're buying a new tire, it should be far less. Still, the nitrogen generator, filling system and technician's time aren't free—the dealer is entitled to some return for that. 

So, to answer your specific questions: With nitrogen, your tire pressures will remain more constant, saving you a small amount in fuel and tire-maintenance costs. There will be less moisture inside your tires, meaning less corrosion on your wheels. You will not be able to feel any difference in the ride or handling or braking, unless your tire pressures were seriously out of spec and changing to nitrogen brought them back to the proper numbers.

Credit to Popular Mechanics

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DIY GROUNDING KIT INSTALLATION

DIY Grounding Kit Installation 

Ok first before we start, it is very important to know & understand that the grounding kit & voltage stabilizer is NOT a performance enhancing mod! It merely improves: Cars electronics. 

From that point on it leads to other attributes such as improved throttle response, improved audio quality, enhanced interior & exterior lighting of car, etc. this than leads to a 100-110% running car. 

Ok let’s start. 

The basic kit comprises of:

- a voltage stabilizer

- Grounding point cables (5, 7 & 9 point. Mine is a 5 point)

- fixings 

Standard kits contain 5 grounding cables, with terminals at either end of the cables. All cables come in various lengths for easier installation. The really expensive kits have gold plated or anodized terminals & more grounding cables. 

I’m using a basic kit with 5 points for now. 

Step 1: 

Positioning of the voltage stabilizer unit- The unit has to be fastened close to the battery as it connects to the battery. Ideally position it where the indication marks can be easily read & furthest away form the engine. As you can see I placed mine on top of my fuse box. Use double sided tape to fasten unit down.

*Important note: clean surface area onto which unit is to be fastened on.*

Step 2:

Connecting the terminals- Once the position is found connect the positive & negative terminals of the unit to the positive & negative terminals of the battery. Red for positive, & black for negative. We did the negative first. The negative terminal required the fixing of an adapter plate as well. 

Adapter plates vary in size & shape, pending on kits. Mine had 3 mounting points for the grounding cables. 

*Important note: ensure the car is switched off & car radio is switched off. Be careful when connecting & fastening terminals.*

Connect the positive terminal & Oooo a cool “riced-up” light comes on.

  

Step 3: 

Connect grounding points- Most kits come with a basic diagram layout. Follow it as best as possible. This is a universal ideal for position of grounding points, on your car it may be different. In the case of my D17 we opted for a slightly different setup. The basic grounding points are: 

- car’s body 

- fire wall

- engine 

- alternator 

- distributor 

You will find existing grounding points on these parts (pending car model). Instead of connecting to the distributor Greg connected it to the Lead wires. 

* Important note: ensure the engine bay is cooled, before working on it. Again ensure all fixing points are clean/ed.*

Step 4: 

Checking- check all connection, fixing & fastening points thoroughly.

Step 5: 

Tidying up- all I can say is, cable tires are your best friend! I know its not the prettiest sight in the world & with a 9 point grounding kit your engine bay may end looking like a Subaru’s or the inside of a PC hahahaaaaa. We made everything look as neat as possible on my car. Good thing, the King of cable tires was around to help…

Well all is done and the end result:

# Disclaimer: this was the ideal layout for my car, on your car it may differ. This is just a guide line to follow. Read & follow the instruction accompanying your kit first before attempting to install. Kits may differ. When unsure about anything, consult professional help # 

My verdict on the product: 

So I had it on for just less than 2 days & I noticed the following: 

- The headlights on the car were brighter, especially the brights. 

- My audio system is more clearer & crisp sounding 

- The electric windows run better than previously 

- The idle is smoother 

- I can feel my vtec change over more than before. (for sohc vtec motors that’s great) 

- Throttle response has increased a bit as well. 

Again I will state that this is NOT a performance gain mod so do not expect an extra kw or 2. It’s a unit that improves the overall running of one’s car. 

I highly recommend this for guys with older model cars & those who have done engine transplants & Frankenstein conversions, you will defiantly notice the difference!

Credit to hondaracingcrew

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HOW TO PREP A CAR FOR POLISHING

HOW TO PREP A CAR FOR POLISHING

As detailing enthusiasts look through posts outlining a complete detail of a car, they’re always impressed with before and after photos showcasing the fine polishing skills and products being used. We as professional detailers do our best to make them as informative and educational as we can, and sometimes we even get lucky by adding a bit of humor while we’re at it to keep the readers’ attention.

Many times however, these posts can skip over some of the most important steps in the process…proper preparation of the vehicle and the paint to get it ready for the crucial polishing. If we fail to properly prepare, we may not produce the best results, or worse yet we risk damaging the vehicle. That’s what you call ready – fire – aim!

Because I want to make sure that enthusiasts and detailers alike don’t fire before they aim, I decided to put together an outline for vehicle preparation to make sure that you are getting the most out of your polishing session and achieving the best results.

I know you’re anxious to pick up your polishers for a full-blown beautification session on your car, but put it back on the work bench for now because we’ve got some very important topics to cover first. I realize that the prep stage isn’t the fun part, but don’t worry…we’ll get to polishing.

Before we can achieve this:

We first need to deal with the realities of this:

Washing and Decontamination

First up is the washing stage. I know this sounds obvious, but stick with me here because I’m going to try to cover some critical information why this is all important. If you haven’t already read through my washing and drying tutorial as well as my Grit Guard method article, now would be a good time to check them out so you get a better understanding of how the process works. It’s OK, really…we’ll all stay right here and wait for you to get back.

We’re waiting, and waiting…

Alright, you’re back! Did you pick up on anything that you may have been missing before? There’s some great information in those articles, right? (meanwhile Todd strains shoulder while patting self on back).

Despite the fact that we’re getting ready to polish, we still want to use the same safe techniques as we would when doing a normal maintenance wash. There’s no reason to cause any more damage by improper washing techniques just because we’re getting ready to polish. We’re going to be spending enough time with a buffer in our hands…no need to create more.

Before starting your wash, remove license plates and brackets whenever possible. First of all these are hiding places for gritty dirt, and secondly they get in the way when polishing. It only takes a few moments to remove and re-install them, but you could spend a whole lot more time taping and trying to polish around them if you don’t.

Be sure to thoroughly clean the vehicle to remove any and all dirt, debris, bugs, leaves, etc. All of this gets in the way of polishing, and if there’s any dirt or debris left on the surface, it can get caught in the pad while polishing and you could risk doing more damage than good.

Not only do we need to remove all the potentially abrasive dirt and debris from the car, but we also need to make sure that the surface is free from any previous wax, sealants, grease, tar, etc. I know that the grease and tar examples are obvious, but do you know why it’s important to remove wax and sealants before polishing? It’s because some of these products can run interference with the the polish and pad. Just think of it as a barrier that rests between the paint that you want to polish, and the polishing media itself. There are some products out there (silicones in particular) that will make the polishing process extremely difficult, if not impossible.

Do your normal wash process with your buckets and use your sheepskin wash mitt.

So how do you know whether the vehicle still has a good layer of a wax and/or sealant? Well the easiest way to tell is spray the surface with your hose, and see if the water beads. The tighter the beading, the better the protection is (in most cases). If there’s no beading whatsoever, then shame on you for not keeping a good layer of protection on your car. 

If you look at this picture, you’ll notice how the water is beading nicely, indicating a coat of wax or sealant on the surface that needs to come off.

Claying

Now that we have the car squeaky clean and free from waxes and sealants, it’s time to move on to the next stage of paint decontamination which is claying. If you’re read through my how to use a clay bar (another shameless plug of a previous article!), you understand how clay works to remove all of the embedded contaminants from the surface. This is all the stuff that sticks to your paint, but won’t come off in the normal washing process. While I’m washing the vehicle I’ll typically run my hands across the paint in a variety of areas to check for a gritty feeling. This will give me a good indication of how much claying will be required.

The claying process is very important, and it needs to be done with care as well. If your clay gets abrasive debris caught in it, and you’re not regularly kneading the clay to expose a fresh surface, then you can potentially scratch the surface pretty badly. If you follow my tutorial however, you should be good to go.

Use a fresh clay bar (fine grade clay is all that is needed most of the time) to ensure a clean surface completely free of potentially abrasive contaminants prior to polishing.

This photo will give you an idea of the level of contaminants that the claying process can remove.

If the finish of the car required a lot of claying, or if you used a quick detailer as a clay lube which left a “slick” surface, then I would recommend washing the vehicle one more time to remove any of the residue. At the very least, wipe down each panel with isopropyl alcohol.

Taping

OK, now we’re ready for polishing right? Well actually no, we are not. We prepped the surface by thoroughly cleaning and claying it; now we need to tape it to protect delicate materials and edges that could potentially get damaged if they come in contact with the buffer (especially if we’re using a rotary).

When we’re looking at places to tape, we want to protect sharp items that could get caught by the buffer pad (emblems), rubber that could get damaged or stained (window seals), places where uneven body panels/seams meet, or simply items that stick out and can easily get hit by a buffer (door handles, underneath sides of mirrors, etc).

For most of the work I do I use 3/4″ tape, and 1/4″ for the edge of protective film (3M Clear Bra or Venture Shield). Just make sure that the surfaces are completely dry because the tape will come off and leave the area unprotected.

Here are a few examples of areas that require taping prior to polishing:

Vinyl graphics that are on top of the clear coat

Rubber window and door seals

Protruding edges (the entire edge would get taped here. I only have it partially taped for photo purposes)

On this photo, I am protecting a rubber window trim, window felt (vertical tape), and you can also see where I have a vertical surface protected for when I’m polishing the horizontal edge just below it.

And on this one, there is a small seam that I have taped up with 1/4″ tape just to prevent a buildup of polish. A little bit of tape can prevent a lot of cleanup afterwards! We’ve all seen cars with compound caked in the seams, and I can say that it’s no fun to clean up after it’s hardened.

Taping is all about common sense really. If you think that there’s even a slight possibility that a part of the car could easily be damaged or stained, then tape it off.

Well we’ve gone through a lot of information, so let’s do a quick review of what we need to do to prep a car for polishing:

• Thoroughly wash the car using a strong ratio of wash solution to help strip any previous waxes and/or sealants. A clean, wax/sealant-free finish is required to get the most out of our polishing session.
• Clay the surface of the car to remove any embedded contaminants that doesn’t come off with normal washing.
• Tape up all rubber trim, uneven seams, protruding parts (door handles), emblems, and any other part of the car that could potentially get stained by polish or damaged by a buffer.

Now that we’ve accomplished all of these steps, we’re ready to start polishing to bring the finish to a whole new level. Unfortunately however, that needs to wait for another article. Stay tuned…

Credit to detailedimage.com

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